Beautiful nails may be your pride and joy, but they often come with an environmental cost. Nail care products—a market worth $951.2 million in 2004[1]—can contain harmful substances like toluene, ethyl acetate, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), and formaldehyde. Fortunately, eco-friendly alternatives exist to help keep your nails healthy, strong, and glamorous without harming the planet or your health.
Eco- and health-perils of nail care
Chemicals in nail polishes and removers
Solvents used to aid in the drying and hardening of nail polish—like toluene and xylene—are petroleum-derived. Petroleum is a non-sustainable resource whose extraction and production has caused major environmental damage to soil, surface and ground waters, and local ecosystems, and contributes to global warming. Formaldehyde, another chemical solvent compound that's also found in cigarette smoke, car exhaust, and home construction materials, is one of the world's most hazardous compounds to both ecosystems and health, according to the Environmental Defense Scorecard. Given that it's a known carcinogen, formaldehyde is used less frequently these days as a nail polish solvent and has been completely banned from use in cosmetics by the European Union (EU).
Phthalates—substances in nail polish used to prevent chipping—also have a lengthy rap sheet when it comes to health concerns (though some claim they aren't yet substantiated), including possible birth defects, as well liver, kidney, lung, and reproductive system damage. Phthalates are found everywhere from the air to water to soil, primarily from industrial sources. It's estimated that between 1987 and 1993, the release of the phthalate Bis-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) into land and water amounted to over 500,000 pounds, mostly coming from rubber and plastic hose production.[2] Like formaldehyde, the use of phthalates has been banned from use in cosmetics by the EU.
Acetone, the key ingredient in nail polish removers, is also ubiquitous in the environment. It occurs naturally in volcanic gases and during forest fires, but unnatural, industrial release of the substance is more prevalent. It can enter water supplies via hazardous spills and landfills. Levels of acetone in the air are usually higher in urban areas compared to rural ones; its presence also tends to be higher inside homes than outside due to the use of chemical household products.
Other nail polish ingredients, such as benzophenone-1 and ethyl lactate, can lead to hormone disruption and neurological damage, respectively.
A simple way to avoid these hazards is to shun nail care products altogether. If you can't resist, don't color yourself toxic: seek a water-based nail polish sans chemical solvents or acetone-free nail polish remover. Many major cosmetics companies, such as Revlon and Sally Hansen, also offer phthalate- and toluene-free products.
Labor concerns & nail salons
The US nail salon industry is a powerful one, bringing in $6.53 billion in 2003, a 67 percent increase from 1993. According to a 2007 study released by Women's Voices For the Earth, 95 percent of nail salon workers are female and of childbearing age; a large percentage of these women speak English as a second language—approximately 37 percent are Vietnamese-American[3]—and may not be able to comprehend warnings and information regarding the potential toxicity of the products they work with on a daily basis. A 2004 survey conducted by New York City's Committee For Occupational Safety and Health and a Korean workers' advocacy group revealed that health issues among salon workers are rampant: 57 percent reported experiencing allergies, 37 percent complained of skin problems and eye irritation, and 18 percent suffered from asthma. It's believed that these complications arose from inadequate ventilation in salons.[4]
As part of the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)'s Nail Salon Project, a guide titled Protecting the Health of Nail Salon Workers has been published in Korean, Vietnamese, and English to help nail salon workers identify harmful chemicals in products and minimize their exposure to them. Additionally, in June 2007 the EPA granted two Seattle-area nonprofit groups, the Community Coalition for Environmental Justice and the Environmental Coalition of South Seattle, $100,000 to launch the "Toxic Beauty" project—an effort to green local nail salons that are primarily Vietnamese-owned and operated.
Glossary
- formaldehyde: A flammable reactive gas belonging to the VOC (volatile organic compound) family of chemicals. It is widely used in personal care products, building materials, insulation, and home furnishings.
- phthalates: Phthalates are additives that are widely used in plastics and other materials, mainly to make them soft and flexible. They have applications in industry, in medicine, and in consumer products.
External links
- Campaign For Safe Cosmetics
- The Nation - The High Price of Beauty
- Ideal Bite - Who says it's bad to bite?
- Health Care Without Harm - Phthalates/DEHP
- Studies Highlight Hazards of Manicurists’ Chemicals
- Women's Health & The Environment - Nail Salon Reports
- Co-op America - Real Money: The Ugly Side of Cosmetics
- Green Footsteps - Nail Polish Ingredients: Should We be Worried?
- Seattle Post-Intelligencer - Color them green: EPA grants will help nail salons
- Environmental Working Group - Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database: Check out where your favorite nail care product ranks on the hazard scale.
